im unsure about r33s but if you only cut and insulate the standard r33 battery feed to the alt, when you add in the iso switch you wont upset Voltage sense wire. the Voltage sense wire is spliced into the wire running from the battery stud on the alt to battery positive. On R32s the 2 pin plug that goes into the alt contains a Voltage sense wire and a warning light feed. from the batt stud on the alternator to the battery positive side of the iso switch VIA a 100A fuse link. Then remove and insulate the battery wire going to the alt. make a short battery cable to go between the iso switch and and batter positive. Put all the battery positive wiring to one side of the iso switch. So on a r33 id put the iso switch in the boot with a cams compliant pull cable near the bottom right of the windscreen then id run a second pull cord to the dash for your own safety. Ill post some pics up tomorrow after working on bens race car. no cheap alternatives and a good quality fuse link. i have done 20+ cars this way and saves using the gay cams spec way and as brad says it will cause you trouble in the long run. This is a hand drawn diagram of the best way to do race car isolation. My mac doesnt have paint as im afraid its far to superior. Its hard to understand brad because he spells Fuse FUZE. I THINK THE RULING ON OUTSIDE PULL LOCATION IS STILL RH SCUTTLE PANEL? AREA. IT WILL REQUIRE A PULL CABLE TO OUTSIDE AND HAS TO BE ABLE TO BE REACHED INSIDE BY DRIVER AND NAVIGATOR. WHEN YOU TURN THE ISOLATOR OFF THE CAR STOPS BUT LEAVES THE OUTPUT TO ALTERNATOR SIT CONNECTED TO BATTERY SO NO CURRENT SURGE OCCURS. THEN ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE SWITCH RUN IT TO THE STARTER LUG AND INTO THE FEED OF THE FUSE BOX RH SIDE OF ENGINE BAY. I was hoping that some electrical gurus could clear this up so that i can power up my car and the info will be on here for other's.īUY A HELLA ISOLATOR AND DONT USE THE UNIT WITH THE RELAY THEY CAUSE MORE ELECTRICAL ISSUES THAN U CAN IMAGINE), HOOK THE BATTERY FEED TO ONE SIDE, RUN THE BATT (+) ALTERNATOR MAIN FEED TO THIS SIDE TOO (DISCONNECT THE ORIGINAL 6MM WIRE AT THE BATT (+) POST OF ALTERNATOR) MAKE SURE YOU USE A 100 AMP HD FUZE OR FUZABLE LINK IN THIS 6MM CABLE. Do you just splice into the ON wire on the back of the key or do you have to cut the wire so to stop the std battery feed? for the ignition coil wire can i just tap into the ignition wire that used to go into the old dash? As i am running a Stack dash this plug is just cable tied back onto the harness.Īlso i was thinking cause i am running the Stack dash will i have to wire in a Battery/alternator light in so that the circuit is complete and the alternator will still be excited and charge? I am ok with wiring up the main battery cable the positive jumper and the resistor but i am a little confused with the Ignition switch wire and the ignition coil wire. I am confused with a few of the wires and why the 3 Ohm resistor is required. They have to be a 6 pole isolator that protects the alternator from current surges etc once it has been switched off etc, the diagram i got with it is below. I am trying to sort out the wiring as well as fitting a CAMS approved isolator. I have been building up R33 up as a track car for a while now and i am in the final stages of it.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply.AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |